Kempinski Palace Engelberg, Switzerland

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Exquisite luxury in Central Switzerland

In the sleepy resort town of Engelberg, nestled in a valley between the Titlis and Brunni peaks, sits the Kempinski Palace. Originally opened as a spa in 1889, one year after Engelberg was connected to the Swiss railway network, this Belle Epoque building has, under its various different guises, operated as a hotel since 1905.  From 2016 to 2021, it underwent a complete (and triumphant) redesign and renovation for the ages at the hands of London-based designer Jestico & Whiles. It is now the first and only five-star resort in the largest tourist destination in Central Switzerland.

In the heart of Engelberg’s mountains and valleys

Our room was a supremely cozy and beautiful space on the fourth floor. Its two sets of French windows opened onto a generously sized balcony with south-facing views over the quaint rooftops of the town and the station towards Mount Titlis – the perfect spot to sit with a cup of coffee and take in the unhurried movements on the streets below as the sun rose and the town came to life. We left the windows ajar overnight to let the fresh mountain air in, which led to us having some of the most restful sleep of our life here! From the fine grain of the wood paneled walls in the bedroom to the monochromatic stone paneling in the bathroom; from the luxurious drape of the thick beige curtains to the lustrous sheen of the bed sheets, no expense had been spared in decorating this room. We felt so at home here and were very sentimental when it came for the time to leave.

Engelberg is a perfect year-round destination for outdoor enthusiasts. And situated just minutes from the base of the slopes of both Mount Titlis and Mount Brunni, the Kempinksi is an ideal base for those outdoor pursuits. In the winter, skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing and sledding are natural choices. In the summer, the idyllic and pastoral slopes of Mount Brunni are ideal for hiking and biking.

When we were there, in mid-autumn, the russet and gold falling leaves of the majestic trees in the park adjoining the hotel lent the place a sombre, ephemeral vibe. Truly a place for all seasons.

Dining

The Kempinski’s main dining venue, Cattani Restaurant, is a French-Swiss brasserie with intimate banquette seating and warm lighting perfectly counterposed against soaring high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the park. In warmer months, the windows open out onto an awninged terrace with al fresco seating – surely ideal for savouring the mild and long summer evenings.

The flavours here are unmistakably French: I enjoyed a veal rack with herb crust, eggplant, purple potato and jus, the herb crust of which had a very Provençal feel; my husband had the turbot fish with Venere rice, artichoke, crusts and saffron foam, which was classically French in its unctuousness.

A sumptuous Alpine breakfast spread

It is here in the morning that the expansive breakfast buffet is set up. This being Switzerland, Bircher Muesli is a natural starting point – but this is Bircher Muesli like you’ve never seen it, brought alive by luscious alpine milk and cream and a generous ladle of bold raspberry puree. The kitchen churns out expertly executed made-to-order egg dishes, from the classic smoked salmon, avocado and poached egg, to local flavours such as fried egg, regional ham and potato roesti, and more exotic options like Turkish eggs. And any hopes of curtailing sugar intake are surely dashed at the sight of the chef’s masterful executions of Germanic bakery classics like the gugelhupf.

Sky pool and spa

Our wholesome (and, ok, somewhat hedonistic) routine here consisted of gorging on the breakfast buffet, hiking through the alpine meadows and coming home at sunset to thaw out in the Kempinski’s sprawling rooftop spa complex. Repeat x 5. And what a spa complex it is.

The infinity pool area is truly luxurious, decked out with slick black marble floors and framed by wraparound skylight windows offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountain valley. The furniture is thoughtfully designed to allow guests to appreciate those views, whether from the 15-metre-long pool’s in-water lazy-z metal bench on one side of the room (note: the water is heated to a toasty 32 degrees), or the plush daybeds on the other side of the room.

Adjoining the infinity pool area and rounding out the spa offering is a relaxation room with an open Himalayan salt-stone fireplace and an ice fountain, a Finnish sauna, a bio sauna filled with aromatic scents and a soothing steam bath. There is also a fitness room with all the usual up-to-date equipment.

The Palace Bar

In cooler months, the crackling flames of the open fire and skilful hands of the bartenders at the Palace Bar beckon. This area of the hotel, with its huge sash windows, was part of the original hotel built in 1905 and radiates with all the conviviality and clubbiness of a traditional private members’ club.

Afternoon tea

Afternoon tea is served in the Wintergarden, where the large panoramic windows immerse you in the spirit of the season. The house-made cakes here are to die for - fluffy but rich and sweet but not cloying.

“Raw luxury” at its finest

Kempinski Palace Engelberg’s slogan is “experience raw luxury,” which is a fitting (if modest) description. Often, the reality of a hotel guest’s experience in today’s world falls short of the lofty expectations created by the hotel’s marketing. Not so here. Everything, from the satisfyingly heavy guest room doors to the delectable alpine produce gracing the breakfast buffet, is just so well engineered that even the word “luxury” does not do it justice and seems a tad frivolous. “Perfect” would be a better word.

There are thoughtful little touches such as the lobby being re-stocked with fresh, delicious apples supplied by local farmers everyday and fresh, seasonal local flowers greeting guests in their rooms and around the hotel.

This is a place that is sophisticated yet casual, traditional yet chic and raw yet cosseting; a place where you come not to “see and be seen” but to enjoy the most finessed version of life’s greatest pleasures, like food and the great outdoors!